Kenza

A cool stay in a rustic environment. We were worried about the heat (105F!) but the caves maintain a nice consistent temperature. Room #3 has a main room with two single beds that serve as couches and an unreliable coffee table. There is a tiny room with a single bed and no door and a bedroom with a double bed and a very low ceiling (maybe 4.5'?). There are no windows, but we just left the front door open all the time. One wall switch with one outlet in each room. Mattresses on stone slabs are surprisingly comfortable. But, this is not a luxurious stay by any means. Several patio areas with some seating and absolutely stunning views! The location is fabulous and the best part of the stay. Breakfast and dinner are served in the restaurant. It's a steep, 5-minute climb back up to where the rooms are, with lots of steps and uneven stones. Not for the unsteady or anyone without a basic level of fitness. Climb up on top of the rooms and you will find that at some point they have made what appears to be a swimming pool! This would be a fantastic addition if it's ever filled. Dinner is 30 dinars per person, pretty good and pretty much the only option. There is a restaurant at the bottom of the hill, but we did not check it out. Take a walk laterally across to the cafe near the white mosque for a great cup of coffee and fantastic breezes and cool views of the other side. Walk by the shopkeepers and duck under the blue bar to explore the ruins of the troglodyte dwellings. So cool! Overall, a simple, rustic stay (better than camping) high on a hill with stunning views.

The key to loving this place is deceptively simple: remember that you are in a cave, not a hotel. Yes, the WiFi may malfunction. Yes, your sink may leak. No, your sheets may not be crisp and brilliantly white.  But get ahold of yourself, man! You are in a magical environment, one of the most beautiful places imaginable. Me, I loved every minute of it. Room: We stayed in Attoucha (3). The room was spacious and chock-full of character. It consists of a common room with two single beds and a table, a tiny alcove with one single bed and a main bedroom with a good-sized double bed. Five beds may sound like overkill for two people, but we used two of the singles as sofas and the alcove as a place to put our luggage. Although the ceiling above the double bed was less than five feet high it never felt oppressive, and the ceiling in the common area was of normal height. The bed was firm but very comfortable. The shower was decidedly rudimentary, but hot water was plentiful and nearly instantaneous. Our patio had a stunning view, and it was a delight to sit outside every night listening to the sounds of the village below and the surreal acoustics of the call to prayer echoing throughout the valley. We had the misfortune to be here one day when the temperature was 105, and the room was still comfortable. Sadly, WiFi in the room was non-existent and Internet access sporadic.  Location: The abandoned dwellings and granaries are beautiful and fascinating. Chenini is most commonly visited as a day trip, but I highly recommend staying at least one night (we stayed three) in order to experience it at different times of day and without tour groups. One caveat: the walk to and from the parking lot is tiring; even the walk to and from the dining area was no picnic for this fairly fit, 64-year-old. Food: We arrived spoiled, having had excellent breakfasts at our last two lodgings, so the breakfast here suffered by comparison. Nonetheless, it was tasty and plentiful. Dinners were good; a bit pricey by local standards, but not by Western ones. I had no interest in braving the arduous walk required to try the Mabrouk Restaurant at the bottom of the hill. If you choose to do so, Godspeed, and alert the staff, as they clearly expect you will be eating here. Staff: Communication was hit or miss, as it seems not much English or French is spoken. Regardless, we could make our wishes known and staff were always polite and responsive.  Overall, I had a terrific and thoroughly memorable stay here, and highly recommend it to the adventurous traveler who values beauty and novelty over luxury.

The location and concept is fantastic but the owners of Kenza have become complacent with success. They have a thriving business with tour groups so are a bit dismissive of independent travellers. To be honest in our travels in Tunisia we felt less welcome here than anywhere else. I imagine this will remain the case while they remain the only accommodation option in Chenini. They are well aware that tourists will pay well above normal prices for this experience.