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July 15, 2024
Revisiting the old place
In December 1972, I enlisted in the army from Zhanjiang and was assigned to serve in the 53901 unit of Zhuhai County (now Zhuhai City). The unit was stationed on Danggan Island in the Wanshan Islands. He spent more than four years of military service on Danggan Island until he was discharged in March 1977.
It has been 47 years since I retired from the army and left Danggan Island.
Most people who have served in the military have a nostalgia for their unforgettable military experiences and the places where their troops were stationed. Perhaps due to this state of mind, they have always had the idea of returning to the place where they served as a soldier to take a look. After retirement, this thought becomes more urgent as I get older.
I finally set off on July 5 this year, and drove alone to the area near Xiangzhou Port in Zhuhai City and checked in. That afternoon, I went to Xiangzhou Port and bought a boat ticket to Danggan Island the next day. The adult ticket price is 210 yuan, and the half-price price for those over 60 years old is 105 yuan, which is quite friendly to the elderly.
However, there is no navigation on Dangan Island on Sundays and Tuesdays. I bought a flight for Saturday, so I had to stay on the island for two nights, and there was no return flight until the third day, Monday.
The next day was Saturday, and there were quite a lot of people going to the various islands in the Wanshan Islands for tourism and leisure from the port. The port's huge parking lot is full of parked vehicles.
Dangan Island is located on the southeastern side of the Wanshan Islands, 73 kilometers away from Zhuhai's Xiangzhou Port, which has inland flights, and covers an area of 13.2 square kilometers. It is said that the island got its name because its shape resembles a carrying pole.
When I was serving in the army on the island, the settlements on the island were mainly distributed in the three bays of Dangantou, Danganzhong and Danganwei.
Dangantou is home to a regimental garrison headquarters and its subordinate agencies, known as the First Garrison District of the Wanshan Fortress Area, with the unit code name 53901. Several of its companies are stationed in several harbors and mountaintops on the island. The fifth company I was in when I was in the army was stationed in the harbor in Danganzhong.
I have a deep impression of the several times I took boats to and from Dangan Island. Even now, when I think of the discomfort of seasickness, I still feel a little scared.
When I was in the army, I traveled back and forth between Danggan Island and the inland on a military shuttle boat used by island garrisons to transport supplies and personnel. The boat was small and slow, and it took several hours to get from Zhuhai Tangjia Port to Danggan Island. If we encountered strong winds and waves, the whole boat would be quite bumpy, and I would vomit all over the place if I got seasick. I'm terrified just thinking about how it feels to be seasick.
The boat ride to the island that day was quite comfortable. The ship was large enough and had a fast speed. The seats were comparable to those on high-speed trains. The fully enclosed passenger cabin was clean and bright. In addition, there were few winds and waves that day, so we arrived at Danhan Island in a little over two hours.
I originally thought that the passenger ship had reached the middle of the pole, but later I found out that the passenger ship had only reached the head of the pole. The destination is Danganzhong, and you can only get off the boat at Dangantou.
There are two homestays in Dangantou Port. One is relatively old, has a shared squat toilet and is less comfortable. I stayed at the newly built "Xingyu B&B". The B&B has more than 10 rooms, complete facilities and provides personalized catering services for guests in need. The style of the B&B rooms is no different from that of chain hotels in the inland. They are comfortable to stay in, but a bit expensive, at 570 yuan per night. However, it is understandable that this place is far inland and all supplies have to be transported from the inland. The cost of building a homestay like this is estimated to be twice that of inland areas.
It is reported that apart from some anglers from nearby cities such as Guangzhou, Zhongshan and Zhuhai in the mainland who come here to fish and stay, there are not many people coming and going for other business.
Dangantou is a small port with dozens of houses scattered on the bay. There is also a coast guard barracks. It should be quite popular. However, there were only a few people visible in the entire settlement. The island was an island with few industries. After the garrison troops withdrew, the atmosphere became quiet and lifeless. Compared with other islands that have been developed into tourist areas, this place seems like a forgotten corner.
The number of monkeys on the island has increased significantly compared to decades ago. In the morning, a few monkeys ran to the front of the B&B to look for food. I deliberately waved my hand to try to drive them away, but they squeaked and bared their teeth and pounced on me, as if howling at me: Why are you so fierce? I am the master here.
In addition to being suitable for fishing, the island is also densely forested. Not only is the environment quiet and beautiful, the air is fresh, but through the floor-to-ceiling glass windows of the homestay, you can also enjoy the endless sea view, which is refreshing. This is indeed a place for leisure and relaxation!
On the morning of the second day after arriving at the island, we planned to rent a motorcycle from Dangantou to the Dangan Zhongyuan Army Company’s base, but it was said that a section of the Pandao Highway was interrupted due to a landslide, so we could only rent a speedboat at Dangantou Port. We rented a speedboat from the B&B owner for 300 yuan and arrived at Danganzhong in just a few minutes.
After getting ashore at Danganzhong, the scene of the small port in front of us is similar to that of Dangantou. The buildings are basically the same as the residential houses that were scattered above the harbor decades ago. Compared with the lively scene when troops were stationed here more than 40 years ago, the difference is not small.
On the mountain above the settlement, the barracks where the 5th Company was stationed when I was in the army is mostly hidden by the jungle, but it is still vaguely visible. Except for the broken doors and windows, the appearance of the barracks is still the same and it looks so familiar. When we climbed above the bay and arrived at the barracks, we felt like a young man meeting his dream star. I was shocked. This place that I had been dreaming about and unforgettable for a long time couldn't be more familiar.
Nearly 50 years have passed, and except for the doors and windows that have fallen into disrepair, the main part of the barracks is relatively intact. The barracks have been preserved so well probably because the island is sparsely populated and there is little human intervention.
However, the flat and wide playground in front of the barracks; the water tank for bathing on the north side of the playground; and the concrete tables and sitting mats between the playground and the barracks, where the entire platoon members ate, relaxed and enjoyed the cool air, were completely covered by the natural jungle that blocked out the sun.
The road leading to the seaside outpost on the west side of the barracks is overgrown with bushes and weeds. I walked forward with difficulty, pushing through the dense jungle in the direction of the seaside outpost. The barracks was three or four hundred meters away from the seaside outpost, and it took more than ten minutes to walk. The sun was shining brightly and my clothes were soaked with sweat.
Revisiting the place I had longed for for decades, the scene brought back memories. People and things have changed, and it makes me feel deeply moved.
It was here, forty-seven years ago, that I lived, studied, trained, fired rifles, and stood guard together with comrades from all over the world for more than four years and more than 1,500 days and nights! Thinking back to that scene, it is still vivid in my mind.
However, in the blink of an eye, all this has become a distant past.
Revisiting the old place, although it was tiring and took five days to travel back and forth, it brought the old man's mind back to the glorious past and released the long-buried feelings for the old place. It can be said that the trip was worth it and all the hard work was worth it!
Original TextTranslation provided by Google