Diocletian's Palace, located in the heart of Split's Old Town, is more of an old town than a palace. Two-thousand-year-old stone walls have blended into cafes and residential buildings; the clock tower, a later addition, offers panoramic views of red rooftops and the Adriatic Sea. The cellars now house souvenir stalls, the air thick with the scents of stone and olive oil. A few meters apart outside the south water gate, the masts of yachts and ancient Roman columns create a sense of time standing still. It's usually quite crowded, but in the evening, after the tourists have left, it quiets down, and you can hear your own footsteps on the cobblestone streets.