A Gathering Place of Ba-Shu History and Culture in Guangyuan, Sichuan

During a layover on our journey to Tibet while waiting to transfer trains, we embarked on a one-day self-drive tour around the scenic spots of Guangyuan City, where I deeply experienced the charm of Ba-Shu culture. From modern urban landscapes to ancient historical sites, and then to the natural scenery along the Jialing River, every step was filled with surprises. After staying at Guangyuan Hotel on the evening of the 6th, we visited the Thousand-Buddha Cliff, Huangze Temple, and Jianmen Pass on the 7th. While waiting for our train, we also savored the unique flavor of this city. Guangyuan City (historically known as Lizhou) is an important prefecture-level city in northern Sichuan Province, boasting over 4,000 years of civilization. It is one of the birthplaces of Ba-Shu culture and holds a unique position as both a military stronghold and a cultural melting pot. The city has produced many notable figures: Wu Zetian, China's only female emperor, was born here; Sima Guang lived here in his youth to study; and poets like Du Fu and Lu You left inscriptions and verses at Jianmen Pass. In modern history, it was the core of the Sichuan-Shaanxi Soviet Area established by revolutionary leaders under the Party's guidance: from 1933 to 1935, Guangyuan served as the starting point of the Red Fourth Front Army's Long March, where over a thousand Soviet regimes were established, and 47,000 people joined the Red Army. In terms of modern administrative development, Guangyuan became a city in 1985 after the county was abolished. It now governs three districts and four counties, with a permanent population of about 2.25 million. Guangyuan's historical lineage is clear, spanning from the ancient Shu Kingdom to the revolutionary base areas, blending military, cultural, and ecological diversity. Sites like Jianmen Pass and Zhaohua Ancient Town still showcase its profound heritage today. Huangze Temple, located at No. 97 Huangze Road, Lizhou District, Guangyuan City, Sichuan Province, by the Jialing River, is the only temple dedicated to Wu Zetian, China's only female emperor. To commemorate her birthplace (Wu Zetian was born in Guangyuan), the temple was named "Huangze," symbolizing "the emperor's boundless grace and blessings bestowed upon her hometown." The temple has a history of over 1,500 years. Inside, there are structures such as the Ersheng Hall, the Wu Family Ancestral Temple, the Empress Wu True Likeness Hall, the Great Buddha Tower, the Five-Buddha Pavilion, and corner towers, enshrining statues of Emperor Gaozong of Tang, Wu Zetian, and her parents, Wu Shihuo and Lady Yang. The temple worships both the Buddha and the emperor. Huangze Temple preserves 6 caves, 41 niches, and 1,203 cliff carvings dating from the Northern Wei Dynasty to the Ming and Qing dynasties, along with historical inscriptions. These artifacts hold significant cultural, aesthetic, and research value, making them treasures of traditional Chinese culture. Jianmen Pass—located in the middle section of the Great Sword Mountains, is a strategic gorge between the eastern peak Yingpanzui and the western peak Jincheng Mountain. It was a crucial pass on the ancient Shu Road, the Stone Ox Path (Jinniu Road). Due to the towering cliffs on both sides, with peaks resembling swords and the terrain forming a gate-like structure, it was named "Jianmen" (Sword Gate). Jianmen Pass, with its treacherous terrain, served as a vital artery connecting the Central Plains and Southwest China economically and culturally, as well as a contested military stronghold. It enjoys reputations such as "Jianmen, the World's Most Dangerous Pass," "The First Pass Under Heaven," and "The Gateway to Shu." Since the Qin Dynasty opened the Jinniu Road, most invasions into Shu by Central Plains regimes passed through Jianmen Pass. At noon, we tasted the local specialty, the Tofu Banquet, in Jiange County. The banquet features tofu prepared into dishes with diverse flavors, showcasing the ingenuity of local chefs. The taste was indeed delightful.