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[Yoshino 3 (Mikubunjinja Shrine and the genealogy of Kotobamo)] (Yoshino Town, Nara Prefecture, former province name: Yamato)

<A representative example of a "utamakura" where historical fact and fantasy are mixed, its veins live on in many poems> When considering the presence of "Yoshino" in the history of Japanese literature, it is necessary to go back from the most famous period in the history of the area, the Northern and Southern Courts period, to the Heian period. Since ancient times, Yoshino has flourished as a religious center of Shugendo, centered around Kinpusenji Temple, which was founded by En no Ozuno (around the 7th century). When En no Ozuno perceived "Zao Gongen", the principal image of Kinpusenji Temple, he carved its image into a Yamazakura tree. From this origin, Yoshino and Yamazakura formed a "utamakura"-like node, which eventually created the foundation and mood for many literary works. When talking about the literary qualities of Yoshino, Saigyo (1118-1190) is indispensable. Saigyo's real name was Sato Yoshikiyo, and he was a "northern warrior" responsible for guarding the Imperial Palace, but at the age of 23, he suddenly became a monk. His motives are still unclear, and some say he despaired at the work of a samurai, or was heartbroken after a failed romance. Soon after, Saigyo set out on a journey, carrying his backpack, and after climbing up Mount Kinpu in Yoshino, he built a small hut and spent three years there. Saigyo wrote the following poem about this hut: The moss-covered water falls steadily between the rocks, and there is no need to draw it up, it's a dwelling Saigyo, who loved cherry blossoms, also left behind many poems about them, perhaps because he was conscious of the association of "Yoshino = Yamazakura" that originated with En no Gyoja, and this influenced the creation of the image of Yoshino as a "famous cherry blossom spot" that is still passed down today. After Saigyo left Yoshino and the Genpei War continued, a new literary lineage was spun in Yoshino. The main character of this lineage was Minamoto no Yoshitsune (1159-1189). Although Yoshitsune achieved great success by destroying the Heike clan at Dannoura, he became estranged from his brother Yoritomo and was pursued by his brother. In the winter of 1185, in order to escape from Kinai, Yoshitsune and his followers entered Yoshino relying on religious forces such as Kinpusen-ji Temple and its monk's temple, Kissui-in, but soon found themselves in danger and attempted to cross the mountains in deep snow. However, the mountain path of Omine that leads from Yoshino to Kumano had been prohibited for women since ancient times, so Yoshitsune had no choice but to bid his final farewell to his concubine Shizuka Gozen (years of birth and death unknown) in the mountains. Shizuka Gozen was eventually captured by Yoritomo's men and sent back to Kamakura. It is well known that she sang of her affection for Yoshitsune in front of her enemy, Yoritomo and his wife, saying, "I long for the traces of the man who entered Yoshitsune, stepping through the white snow on the peaks of Mt. Yoshino." Their tragic love and noble spirit made the story that increased their popularity popular, and added a clear phosphorescence to Yoshino, especially its winter scenery. As time passed and many lives flickered with the rise and fall of the Southern Court, Yoshino's literary atmosphere became even more fertile. In particular, the "Yoshino Cherry Blossom Viewing" in 1594 is linked to its position as a modern tourist destination. This grand event, organized by Toyotomi Hideyoshi (1537-1598) and attended by approximately 5,000 civil and military officials, has given rise to many anecdotes, such as prayers offered to the entire mountain (Hideyoshi is said to have threatened to burn down temples and shrines if the rain did not stop) and an elaborate costume contest for various feudal lords, as well as historical sites such as Chikurin-in Gunpoen Garden (photos 8-10, said to have been developed by Hosokawa Yusai for the cherry blossom viewing in Yoshino). Another great place to experience this lineage is Yoshino Mikumari Shrine (photos 1-7). The shrine building was rebuilt by order of Toyotomi Hideyoshi's son Hideyori (1593-1615) and is located close to Kamisenbon, where Saigyo built his hermitage. As the name suggests, this shrine has been revered since ancient times as a water source for the mountain ranges, and is also famous as a god of fertility due to the similarity between "mikumari" and "mikomori". There are many cases of marriages being made, including the father of the Edo period scholar of Japanese classics Motoori Norinaga (1730-1801, a doctor in Matsusaka, Ise Province, who was devoted to Japanese classics and wrote the Kojiki, which had a great influence). Norinaga had heard that the child was born through prayer at Mizubunjinja Shrine, and this led him to travel to Yoshino and spread the charm of the area to the world by writing about it in his Sugegasa Nikki (1772). In this way, the climate and culture of Yoshino, where various elements such as nature, faith, history, politics, and love shine and blend together, can be seen as a typical example of a Japanese "utamakura", and it retains a charm that is deeply connected to the mentality of "mono no aware" advocated by Norinaga. Recommended for solo travelers: ★★★★ (There are people, but not many. You can enjoy sightseeing in peace!) Visit date: Saturday, the first week of October, around 8am Access: About 35 minutes on foot from Kintetsu Yoshino Station (Nyoirinji Temple) #Yoshino #Yoshino Mikumarijinja Shrine #Saigyoan #Yoshinoyama #Nara #Nara Prefecture #Nara trip #Nara sightseeing #I'm a Nara fan #Delicious and beautiful Nara #Back to Nara now #Nara is beautiful #Yoshino town #Domestic travel lover #Temples and shrines #Temples and shrines touring #Shrine touring #Shrine lover #Mikumarijinja Shrine #Chikurin-in Gunpoen #Japanese garden #World Heritage Site #Saigyo #Minamoto no Yoshitsune #Shizuka Gozen #Toyotomi Hideyoshi #Motoori Norinaga #History lover #Solo travel #Life with travel
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Posted: Jan 9, 2024
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