Travel Notes on Mount Huashan (Part 3) - Climbing All Five Peaks from West to North
Huashan Travel Notes (Part 3)
---Climbing all five peaks from west to north
On August 22, 2024, we got up at 6 a.m., ate the steamed buns and eggs we brought with us, drank some oil tea, and arrived at the ferry station at 6:40 to queue up. There are many routes to climb Mount Huashan. Considering that our group of four are all elderly people around 60 years old, we chose the most time-saving and labor-saving route of going up from west to north. At 7:00, take the scenic bus from the visitor center for about 40 minutes to the Xifeng Cableway parking lot. Climbing up the stairs from the parking lot, you will see a huge white stone archway with the four big characters "Taihua Scenic Spot" inscribed on it. After passing the archway, there is another slightly smaller black archway with the words "Tianwei Zhichi" inscribed on it. This archway was modeled after the one in the Xiyue Temple. The plaques "Dignified and Supreme" and "Heavenly Power is Within Reach" on it are said to have been written by Yan Song. At 7:55, we arrived at the Xifeng cable car after passing the archway. Fortunately, we arrived early and did not have to wait in line and could take the cable car directly up the mountain. The Xifeng Cableway is known as the No. 1 cableway in Asia. You take the cable car up, then down, up and down again, and cross several mountains before reaching the end of the cable car. It takes about 15 minutes. The amazing thing is that the end of the Xifeng Cableway is built in a cave. Sitting on the cable car and looking left and right, on one side is a cliff that looks like it was cut by a knife or an axe, and on the other side is a stone wall that towers into the clouds, which is terrifying. After getting off the cable car, there were many people who were queuing in the cave waiting to go down the mountain. They were all young people who looked a little tired, and few were over 40 years old.
We got off the cable car at 8:13 and arrived at the West Peak. West Peak, also known as Lotus Peak, is 2,086.6 meters above sea level. It is named after the large rock on the right side of Cuiyun Temple on the top of the peak. Its shape is like a lotus. The mountain peak is strange and steep, as if cut by a knife or a sword, and the cliffs are thousands of feet high. The highest point is the Star-Picking Platform, where you need to use your hands and feet to climb up the iron rope. Looking down from the stage, the vast Qinchuan River is covered with clear blue sky, and it is boundless. The Wei and Luo Rivers are like silver ribbons, and the Yellow River to the north is as thin as a silk thread. The beauty of Xifeng lies not only in its shape, but also in the romantic legend it carries. The story of Chenxiang splitting the mountain to save his mother is well-known. The axe-split stone still stands on the top of the mountain, with a 0.66-meter-wide crack on the stone. The couplet on the stone steps of Cuiyun Palace on Xifeng Mountain, "The immortal's traces can be discerned, the saintly lady once lingered in Liu Lang's dream; the divine axe is hanging, the sound of thunder can still be heard among the green peaks", tells this story.
We descended the West Peak at 8:50, took a short rest under the shade of trees, replenished some supplies, and started heading towards the South Peak. South Peak, also known as Luoyan Peak, is the highest peak of Mount Huashan, with an altitude of 2,154.9 meters. When you climb to the top of South Peak, the wind is blowing, your clothes are fluttering, and you feel as if you can pick stars with your hands. At the top of the mountain is the Taishang Spring. Although it is only one meter in diameter, the water in the pool is green and clear and never runs dry all year round. It is like a natural mirror, reflecting the sky and mountains, adding a bit of mystery to Huashan. There is a couplet engraved on the rock: "Water falls into the Wei River, and the sea emerges from the Golden Palm day and night; the sky surrounds Huayue Mountain, and lotus flowers bloom in the stone basin in spring."
Leave South Peak at 9:30 and head to East Peak to climb. Passing through Nantianmen, you will pass the entrance and exit of Changkong Plank Road. Changkong Plank Road is suspended in the air, overlooking a deep ravine. It is one of the most dangerous places in Huashan. Without extraordinary courage and firm will, one would not dare to take the trip. Because there was a separate fee and we had to make an appointment and queue up, we just looked at it and did not participate. There is a relatively long staircase in front of the East Peak. It took quite a lot of effort to finally climb to the East Peak. East Peak, also known as Chaoyang Peak, has a balcony on the top, which is the best place to watch the sunrise. On the east cliff of East Peak, there is a natural pattern that looks like a giant palm. This giant palm is more than 20 meters long, with five uneven fingers and the middle finger going straight to the top. Whenever the sunlight shines on it, the five fingers appear like a hanging picture. This is Huayue Fairy Palm, the first of the Eight Scenic Spots of Guanzhong.
At 10:40 we reached Zhongzhong, also known as Yunv Peak, with an altitude of 2042.5 meters. The center peak is connected to the east, west and south peaks above and overlooks a deep valley below. Although it is not as high as the other peaks, it has a unique and quiet charm. The lush green cypresses and shady trees here complement the surrounding steep mountains, combining both hardness and softness, like a natural landscape painting. There is a couplet on the Jade Maiden Temple: "Water falls into the Wei River, and the sea emerges from the Golden Palm day and night; the sky surrounds Mount Hua, and lotus flowers bloom in the stone basin in spring."
At 11:10 we left the center and headed for the North Peak. The road to the North Peak was up and down, and in the past it was mostly steps, passing through dangerous places such as Yaozifanshe, Laojunligou, and Caierya. Because we were going down the North Peak, it was not a must-pass place, so we saved a lot of energy and time. Along the way, we met many people climbing up from the North Peak, all of them were panting and exhausted. Arrived at North Peak at 12:32. North Peak is also called Yuntai Peak. Because there are often white clouds and mist, the peak looks like a platform on the clouds, so it is elegantly called Yuntai Peak. It is 1,614.7 meters above sea level. Although it is the lowest among all the peaks, the mountain is steep and has cliffs on three sides. There is only one ridge leading to the south, making it easy to defend but difficult to attack. The couplet on the stone steps of the Woniu Stone on the North Peak is humorous and quite distinctive: "There is no farming in heaven, so don't be surprised at the idleness; there are many uneven mountains in the world, so how can you stop whipping?"
At 13:00 we went down to the North Peak cable car. There were very few people taking the cable car, so we got down the mountain quickly without having to queue. My lifelong wish came true today: I climbed all five peaks of Mount Hua in one day.