In November, daytime temperatures in Agrigento can reach 20°C. Once the sun comes out, you'll need to take off your outer layer and carry it after walking just a few steps. I stayed on an old street in the city; I'd head south, walk down a slope, and arrive at the temple area. The sidewalks are narrow, so you often have to hug the wall to let cars pass, and there's usually a layer of dust on the ground.
You can take a bus or train from Palermo or Catania, which takes about 2 to 3 hours. Part of the route runs along the coast, so you can see the sea. Schedules aren't very frequent, so if you miss one, you'll have to wait. Once you arrive, drop your bags at your accommodation first—don't drag your suitcase up the hills. Buy your admission ticket at the entrance; prices vary by season, and the current rate is posted on a sign, so just pay that amount on the spot.
Entering the site, there's an uphill dirt path lined with olive trees and plowed fields. The soil is dry, the grass is parched, and every gust of wind kicks up dust. Almond blossoms are a February or March thing; you won't see them in November, so don't come expecting that. The sun is still strong, and your face will feel tight after a morning in it, so bring sunscreen and water.
This area is called the Valley of the Temples, a UNESCO World Heritage site. The temples are lined up along the ridge, one after another. On one side of the ridge, you can see rows of rooftops stretching down, and further out, the sea. I arrived in the morning, and there were stretches of over 10 meters with no one around; I could stand and look for as long as I wanted without anyone walking in front of me. One temple has almost all its columns standing, forming a complete circle. I walked around the perimeter, examining the joints and the repairs on the columns—the newly added stone is a shade lighter.
The rules are simple: don't touch the stone structures, don't climb over fences, and don't step on the grass, or the staff will call you out. The afternoon light is harsh, hitting you directly from the sea, making it hard to keep your eyes open—wear a hat. The stone surfaces of the steps and slopes have been polished smooth by foot traffic and can be slippery when there's morning dew, so I took the steps one by one.
It takes over an hour to walk from one end of the park to the other, and there are uphill sections, so take it slow. There's a sign where you wait for the shuttle bus, which runs periodically, though the intervals are longer in the off-season. I walked both ways, and my legs felt heavy on the return trip, so I sat on a low wall by the road to rest for 5 minutes. There's little shade on the path, and the few olive trees don't provide enough cover for people to stand under, so make sure you bring enough water.
At the end of the ridge, there are a few benches. I sat down to rest for a while, with the city's rooftops below me, listening to dogs barking and the intermittent sound of traffic. The wind is stronger here than in the city, and after sitting for a while, my back felt chilly, so I put my outer layer back on. Further west along the coast, there's a stretch of white cliffs. Standing up there, you can see the sea divided into layers of different colors. The path down is a dirt slope; if your shoes don't have good grip, don't try to force it.
By the time I left, it was afternoon. The walk back to the city is uphill—not steep, but long—and I was sweating by the time I finished. The main street also goes uphill. Shops close for a while at noon and then start pulling down their shutters before dark. The portion of pasta I had at lunch was generous; bread was charged separately, and there was also a cover charge, which was printed on the bill. In the evening, families came out to walk on the street, and children rode their bikes over the cobblestones. It gets completely dark just after 5:00 PM. After 4:30 PM, the light starts to fade, and the front of the temples begins to darken.
One of the churches in the city is built over an even older foundation. You have to duck your head as you go down the steps. The stone is cool, and there's glass embedded in the floor so you can see the layer below. There's no admission fee for places like this, and people come and go quietly. I lingered until almost sunset before heading back, with only a few people left on the road. The city isn't big; you can walk around it in half a day. There are buses, but they don't run very often. That's the benefit of coming here in November: no lines, no waiting for crowds to disperse, and you can just leave whenever you've seen enough. 🙂
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