Kayaking to the Submerged Temple, Whispers from Isis' Priests

◾In Egypt, no goddess is more beloved than Isis, her image pervading temples large and small throughout the Nile Valley. ◾Her main temple was relocated to Agilkia Island in 1972, while another part lies submerged in Lake Nasser. ◾For a brief period each winter (December to February), the lake recedes, revealing ancient columns and gates. ◾At sunset, inspired by old photographs from the 1960s, I kayaked with my backpack to revisit the submerged Philae Temple. My paddle broke the surface of Lake Nasser, the setting sun gilding the broken colonnades. The remaining stone gate resembled a crack in time, gradually overlapping with the images of archaeological fleets in the old photos. ◾Sitting in the rocking boat, a sacred ibis perched atop the gilded lintel. Three thousand years ago, their bronze incarnations were enshrined in the deepest recesses of Isis' temple. Now, its white feathers, glazed by the setting sun, resembled a priest in a white robe, its amber eyes measuring the distance between us and the temple, as if verifying whether the intruder possessed the correct temporal code. ◾As I held my breath and paddled through the stone gate, the ibis's clear cry pierced the twilight like a cuneiform seal—a pass through time! It soared and circled, and the wind seemed to echo with millennial prayers. The rescued sandstone, between the scars of relocation and the glory of rebirth, completed an ancient ritual. 🛶 Map (Figure 10) ◾Kayaking Map: Launch at "Coordinate A," paddle halfway around the south of the island (approx. 1.5 km), exploring inscription ruins along the way; arrive at the submerged temple before sunset to enjoy the sunset, and return to shore at "Coordinate B." ◽Launch Coordinate A: 24°01'19.2"N 32°52'55.4"E ◽Landing Coordinate B: 24°01'15.2"N 32°53'12.5"E ◽Temple Coordinate C: 24°01'18.0"N 32°53'12.6"E 🌈 Points of Interest 📍: Submerged Temple ◾Bigeh Island is the original site of the Philae Temple, the burial and rebirth place of Osiris, and one of the most sacred ritual sites in ancient Egypt. ◾Fortunately, the main gate of Philae Temple remains in its original location. The sandstone gate is decorated with winged disc motifs, the columns on both sides feature hieroglyphs and reliefs of deities, and the doorframe retains traces of its original paint. 📍: Megalithic Inscriptions (Figure 11) ◾Numerous inscriptions along the shore of Bigeh Island date back 3,500 years to offerings made during the 18th Dynasty. ◾One inscription worth seeing is that of a son of Ramses II, celebrating his father's reign. The figures, swirling floral decorations, and hieroglyphs on the inscription are direct witnesses to ancient Egyptian history. 📍: Distant View of Medieval Ruins (Coordinate D) ◾600m south of the island: Fatimid military tower (24.010387, 32.888994) and Mamluk fortress (24.011990, 32.890268) ◾The medieval Islamic architecture contrasts with the ancient Egyptian ruins, showcasing Aswan's multicultural history. 🍭 Recommendations ◾Itinerary: Kayak and explore the lake in the afternoon, chase the sunset at the temple in the evening, and have Philae Temple to yourself early the next morning. ◾Accommodation: "Eco Nubia" on Bigeh Island, convenient for both kayaking and hiking | Enjoy the Philae sound and light show during dinner. ◾Route: The north of Bigeh Island is busy with merchant ships, make sure to land at Coordinate B. ◾Equipment: Life jacket (required) | Headlamp (after sunset)