[Nittasho] (Ota City, Gunma Prefecture, former province name: Ueno)

The Nitta clan, who ruled Nitta Manor in Kozuke Province (present-day Gunma Prefecture) for generations as vassals of the Kamakura Shogunate, are a prestigious family that is related to the lineage of the Minamoto clan, along with the Ashikaga clan, whose territory was adjacent to theirs. However, the Kamakura Shogunate was monopolized by the regent Hojo clan, and while the Minamoto clan was shown a certain degree of respect, they were kept away from the center. In the first half of the 14th century, when Emperor Godaigo (1288-1339) planned to overthrow the Shogunate, Yoshisada (1301-1338), who was the head of the Nitta clan at the time, joined in this. He killed the Hojo clan officials, who had long been oppressive, and raised an army. At first, the Nitta clan was the only minority, but their aggressive offensives proved successful, and allies gathered from all over. Emboldened, Yoshisada rushed to Kamakura, and finally achieved the great feat of destroying the shogunate and the Hojo clan. In the subsequent Kenmu government, Yoshisada gained the trust of Emperor Godaigo and held key positions together with his family. After Ashikaga Takauji (1305-1358) rebelled, Yoshisada fought against him as the main force of the so-called "Southern Court," but his turbulent life came to an end when he was attacked by the Ashikaga clan in Echizen Province (present-day eastern Fukui Prefecture). During the Muromachi period, when the Northern and Southern Courts were unified and the Ashikaga clan was at the top of the samurai ranks as shogun, the Nitta clan was forced into seclusion. The Iwamatsu clan had a certain degree of power based in Kanayama Castle near Nitta Manor, but they were also troubled by the rise of their kin, the Yokose clan, and they barely made it through the turbulent times. However, when the Tokugawa clan came to power, the situation surrounding the Nitta clan suddenly changed. In fact, the Tokugawa clan claimed to be descendants of the Nitta clan from Ieyasu's ancestors, and used this to give themselves authority (Tokugawa-go actually exists in Nitta Manor, but it is unclear whether Ieyasu's family was the Nitta clan). As a result, the Iwamatsu clan received special treatment from the Tokugawa Shogunate as a ``family member'' and continued to exist as a prestigious hatamoto vassal, despite being a small fief. During this period, the Iwamatsu clan's finances were strained due to the burden of formalities and ceremonies that were not commensurate with their income (rice yield), so they began a strange ``side job.'' This is the ``Nitta cat painting'' that is passed down to this day. It was painted by the head of the Iwamatsu clan himself, and it is said to have been effective in keeping mice away. This painting was extremely popular among the people of Kozuke province, where sericulture was thriving, and its reputation eventually spread mainly to eastern Japan. It is said that after the country was opened to the outside world at the end of the Edo period, the painting was sent across the sea as a "protector" for raw silk and other products. The Iwamatsu clan maintained a unique position as the "lords of cat paintings," but lost their backing when the Edo shogunate fell. However, in recognition of the historical fact that their ancestor Yoshisada had served the Imperial Court, and the achievements of the Nitta Kinno Party, which they formed claiming to "carry out Yoshisada's will," in the Boshin War, they were awarded the title of baron. After the Southern Court was recognized as legitimate in the Meiji period, Yoshisada was greatly honored, and although they were manipulated by the rulers of the time, the clan has survived to this day as a unique existence. Currently, Nitta Manor, which is part of Ota City, Gunma Prefecture, has a "Nitta Manor History Museum" that provides detailed explanations of the history of the Nitta clan and the region (it also has a Nitta cat painting in its collection, but the exhibition is only open for a limited period of time). In addition, the deep relationship between the Nitta clan and the Tokugawa clan can be seen at Serada Toshogu Shrine, adjacent to the museum, Choraku-ji Temple (photos 6-8), and Daiko-in Temple at the foot of Kanayama Mountain (photos 2-3). When you think about it, Nitta Yoshisada was on the historical stage for only about five years, and most of his family members who rushed with him to Kamakura were killed in the war and never returned to their hometowns. However, the fact that the afterglow of their brilliant brilliance continued to illuminate the future of the clan for hundreds of years is an amazing historical fact, and it is nothing but a condensation of the fascinating and mysterious aspects of history. A bronze statue of Yoshisada has been erected in front of the approach to Ikushina Shrine (photos 9-10), where Yoshisada gathered his family to raise an army. His pose recreates the legend of Yoshisada offering his sword to the gods to cross Inamuragasaki during the attack on Kamakura, and it is now an essential scene in the story of Yoshisada's life. On an autumn evening with the scent of burning fields drifting in the distance, the tip of Yoshisada's sword can be seen in the dark blue sky and the clear white stars. The beauty of the beam of light seems to be telling us through the strange fate of the Nitta clan that the logic of the times and the interpretation of history are not so different from the cycle of day and night, and that the existence that has been lurking there is suddenly illuminated by the change in the surrounding colors. Access: About 20 minutes walk from Serada Station (to Nitta-sho Historical Museum) Recommended for solo travelers: ★★★★★ (You can explore to your heart's content. It's almost a private venue!) 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