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[Dorogawa Onsen] (Tenkawa Village, Nara Prefecture, former province name: Yamato)

En no Ozuno, revered as the founder of Shugendo, is said to have actually lived in Japan around the 7th century. He was born in a village near Mount Katsuragi in Yamato Province (present-day Nara Prefecture), and experienced miraculous powers in various places as he ventured into mountain ranges such as the Omine mountain range that stretches from Yoshino to Kumano. His power of the law is connected to the spiritual power of nature and the heart of Buddha, and in particular, he manifested Zao Gongen on Mount Kinpusen in Yoshino, establishing the cultural and political status of the area, and there is no doubt that he established a leading position in Japanese religious culture. There are countless legends about En no Ozuno, but one of the most representative is the existence of Zenki and Ushirogi. They are said to be a married couple of spirits who lived in the mountains of Ikoma, and were originally causing trouble for people when they were captured by En no Gyoja. After coming into contact with En no Gyoja's powers, they repented and followed him as his faithful disciples. En no Gyoja later ordered them to return to their hometown of Yoshino and Omine, and their descendants ran lodgings for ascetics who attempted to scale the mountain, secretly remembering their master's virtues and doing their best to carry them on. Tenkawa, located at the western foot of Mount Omine, south of Yoshino, is said to be Goki's hometown, and was a key mountain transportation point that provided access to the mountain. In particular, the village of Dorogawa, run by Goki's descendants, has prospered as an ancient post town with a row of lodgings for ascetics. In the early modern period, as pilgrimages became popular as a custom in times of peace, Dorogawa became closely connected to the "ko" of common people who gathered in Omine from all over the country. Each ko decided on a regular lodging, and the inns made thorough preparations to welcome the ko members and support their pilgrimages, deepening their economic and spiritual ties. When the Shinbutsu Bunri Rei (law to separate Shinto and Buddhism) was issued in the Meiji period, it had a major impact on Shugendo, its sacred sites, and the religious culture of the common people, and Dorogawa's post town was in danger of disappearing. However, in the 1970s, a drilling survey uncovered an alkaline spring, and the town suddenly came into the spotlight as a hot spring town. The remaining inns all brought in their hot springs, and a hot spring town backed by traditional architecture and Shugendo culture was born. Today, Dorogawa Onsen is widely popular for its nostalgic appearance. Especially at night, the deep darkness of the mountain valley is lit up by the lanterns of the hot spring town, creating a truly fantastic atmosphere. If you look closely at the lanterns, you can see the names of the "groups" that have been passed down to the present day, and you can feel that Omine's unique faith still exists as an underlying attraction. Among them, "Kadojin" (photos 4-6), a long-established inn that has been in operation since the Genroku period (late 17th century), displays valuable cultural artifacts related to Shugendo and ascetics, and has many architectural highlights, such as a wide eaves designed to allow members of the group to depart at the same time. This hot spring can also be used as a day trip, so you don't have to worry even if you are not staying at Dorogawa Onsen. The hot spring combines the effects of local medicinal herbs, allowing you to relax your body while reminiscing about the people of the past. In addition, "Dorogawa Onsen Brewery" (photos 7-9) is a great way to cool down your warmed up body. They brew beer using Dorogawa's famous water "Gorogoro Mizu", and you can enjoy freshly poured beer at a stylish standing bar. The fragrant names "Mountain Laughing Ale" and "Mountain Sleeping Ale" go perfectly with the mellow taste, taking you into a state of ecstasy that could be called the true joy of a hot spring trip. At the counter, guests from each inn, dressed in yukata, and locals who have just finished preparing for the shrine festival are engaged in lively conversation, creating a place of exchange that is reminiscent of the old Dorogawa, where travel brings joy to life. As I headed back to the inn on the night road with this experience in mind, the autumn breeze blowing in from the direction of Omine seemed to refreshingly teach me the many values ​​of this place on this day. Recommended for solo travelers: ★★★★ (There are people, but not many. You can enjoy sightseeing in peace!) Visit date: Saturday, the first week of October, around 9pm Access: About 50 minutes by car from Gojokita IC #Dorogawa Onsen #Dorogawa #Nara #Nara Prefecture #Nara Trip #Nara Sightseeing #I'm a Nara fan #Delicious and beautiful Nara #Back to Nara now #Nara is good #Tenkawa Village #Domestic travel lover #Kadojin #Dorogawa Onsen Brewery #Hot spring town #Strolling through hot spring town #Kansai hot spring #Nostalgia #Nostalgic #Retro architecture #Showa retro #Craft beer #Local beer #Beer bar #Post town #Wooden architecture #Famous architecture #History lover #Solo travel #Life with travel
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Posted: Jan 27, 2024
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