Golden Splendor of Chūson-ji Temple!
Chūson-ji Temple, established in 850 AD, is a Tendai sect temple founded by Master Jikaku. It was later extensively renovated and developed by the Ōshū Fujiwara clan. Fujiwara no Kiyohira built Chūson-ji to pray for peace and to console the souls of those lost in wars, culminating in the construction of the Konjikidō (Golden Hall). Together with Mōtsū-ji Temple, Chūson-ji in Hiraizumi is listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site, symbolizing the pinnacle of Japanese Buddhist and aristocratic culture.
Reaching the starting point of Chūson-ji's approach is no small feat, and it marks the beginning of a challenging uphill journey. The path from the foot of the mountain to the main hall is about one kilometer long, entirely on a slope without any stairs. Lined with ancient trees, the path is pleasantly cool, but the steep incline can still be quite strenuous.
The entire Chūson-ji complex consists of numerous smaller temple buildings, including the Dainichidō, Kannon-dō, and Fudō-dō. We made our way through the complex, stopping to pray at each site, and eventually arrived at the Sankōzō Museum to purchase tickets before heading to the Konjikidō.
The Konjikidō is Chūson-ji's most famous structure. Built in 1124 by Fujiwara no Kiyohira, it is a Buddhist hall enshrining Amida Buddha and housing the remains of three generations of the Fujiwara clan. Except for the roof tiles, the entire structure is covered in gold leaf, making it one of Japan's oldest surviving gilded Buddhist halls. Inside, it preserves exquisite Heian-period artworks and symbols of Buddhist faith. To protect the Konjikidō, a modern building now encloses the entire structure. Photography is prohibited, and visitors can only view it in person. Unfortunately, some individuals still break the rules and upload videos to YouTube. The embedded footage below is likely from media granted special permission for filming.
Diagonally opposite the Konjikidō is the Hakusan Shrine, which is affiliated with Chūson-ji. Next to the shrine is a small café offering light refreshments. From here, visitors can enjoy views of distant snow-capped mountains and cherry blossoms, making it an ideal resting spot for those who have spent the afternoon exploring.
It’s worth noting that transportation in the Hiraizumi area is quite inconvenient. Trains on the JR Tōhoku Main Line from Hiraizumi Station to Ichinoseki Station run only about once an hour. Similarly, the Shinkansen from Ichinoseki to Sendai also operates at roughly one-hour intervals. Missing a train could mean a long wait at the station, which lacks shops or vending machines for food. Even the bicycle rental shop outside the station closes early, likely catering mostly to day-trip tour groups.
In hindsight, it might have been better to follow the example of a Canadian couple we met at Hiraizumi Station and stay overnight in Hiraizumi or Ichinoseki. This would allow for a more flexible schedule, avoiding the rush to visit all three major sites in one day and preserving the leisurely elegance of travel. Accommodation is also quite affordable, with a double room costing around 2,000 TWD per night.