A Surprise Trip to the Jiyi Temple in Xinjiang

Shanxi has many scenic spots, but they are scattered, with many located in county towns and villages. I came to the Jiyi Temple to see the murals. It is located in Yangwang Town, 20 km southwest of Xinjiang County, Shanxi Province. An elderly gentleman is the permanent gatekeeper, and he opened the door for us upon our arrival. Entering the temple, I immediately felt the trip was worthwhile. It was breathtaking. The gentleman also acted as a guide, explaining the stories depicted in the murals. Similar to the murals in the Yongle Palace, the east and west walls of the hall are covered with murals, spanning an area of 130 square meters. The murals are well-preserved, with the east and west walls laid out in a stepped arrangement, 8.23 meters wide and up to 6.18 meters high. The entire mural depicts over 400 figures, both human and divine, centered around the theme of Houji and Boyi. It portrays the three realms of heaven, earth, and the underworld, with various small stories interspersed with landscapes, creating a unified and harmonious picture. The south wall originally had three statues, which were destroyed during the Cultural Revolution. Fortunately, the villagers used the temple as a warehouse, filling it with various items. The lower part of the mural was somewhat damaged due to salt seepage from stored salt. Although painted during the Ming Dynasty, the murals of the Jiyi Temple inherit the traditions of Yuan Dynasty murals. They use ink lines to outline figures and clothing, employing cinnabar for coloring, along with malachite green, azurite blue, white, and yellow, creating rich layers of color. The warm and cool color combinations, contrasts, and reflections in the figures' clothing are both vibrant and harmonious, showcasing exquisite painting techniques. Thanks to Shanxi's dry climate, the murals have been preserved in such vivid condition. The east wall depicts a pilgrimage scene, with the Three Emperors seated in the hall, surrounded by numerous attendants. Officials, military officers, and farmers come to pay their respects. The figures in the painting are in various poses, holding grains, carrying farming tools, or shouldering game, tying up locust demons, holding ants, or carrying fruit platters and jugs, vividly showcasing scenes of ancient agricultural life. The west wall depicts mythological figures such as Dayu, Houji, and Boyi, as well as activities like burning fields, hunting, slaying dragons, logging, farming, harvesting, and offering sacrifices. Every detail in the painting is full of life, demonstrating the ancient people's reverence for nature and their emphasis on agricultural production. Particularly noteworthy is the locust-catching scene on the east wall. In the picture, a burly farmer is holding a man-sized locust, which struggles to escape as the farmer holds it tightly. This picture vividly depicts the scene of a farmer fighting a locust, reflecting the tenacious spirit of ancient people in their struggle against natural disasters. Opposite the Jiyi Temple is a stage. For centuries, people have come here to offer performances to the deities who protect them, providing spiritual strength to the villagers. The elderly gentleman has a small, four-eyed local dog at the entrance. The little fellow was very excited to see us, wagging its head and tail, its short legs scrambling in excitement. This is a scene of daily life in Shanxi that has played out for thousands of years.