Okinawa｜Dining at Hanagasa Shokudo Feels Like Visiting Grandma's House

Tucked away in the alleys of Heiwa-dori, Hanagasa Shokudo is a place you might easily walk past if you're not paying attention. This time, during my revisit to Okinawa, I made sure to return to this charming eatery. Calling it a restaurant might be an overstatement; it's more like a small diner. The kitchen is run by Okinawan grandmas, who also take orders and serve dishes in the front. This eatery has been around for nearly 70 years. Although I didn't get to meet the founding grandma this time, I did enjoy the much-anticipated Goya Champuru set meal (ゴーヤチャンプルー). This dish is quite simple, made with cotton tofu, eggs, bitter melon, and onions. However, it carries the flavors of Okinawa's history. During the Ryukyu era, influenced by China, the Satsuma Domain, the U.S. military, and later self-governance, this dish evolved. It uses a Chinese-style wok and stir-frying techniques, Okinawan island tofu, American SPAM luncheon meat, and Japanese bonito flakes for seasoning—essentially condensing history and culinary culture into one plate. The set meal allows you to choose between celebratory red bean rice, plain white rice, or soft-cooked brown rice. It concludes with a small bowl of delicious red bean soup. In addition to stir-fried bitter melon, the menu offers over ten other options, including pork trotters, Okinawa soba, and fried pork cutlets. One noteworthy detail is the slightly sweet iced tea served at Hanagasa Shokudo. This tea has accompanied Okinawans for nearly 70 years. In fact, the tea is so beloved that it has been commercialized in collaboration with a major beverage company and is now sold in large bottles at supermarkets and convenience stores. This shows just how much Okinawans love Hanagasa Shokudo. 📍Address: 〒900-0013 Okinawa Prefecture, Naha City, Makishi 3-2-48 🚗 A 6-minute walk from Makishi Station