The Emerald Deep in the Tianshan Mountains: A Day at Urumqi Nanshan Pasture

On the aerial grassland, white yurts dot the landscape like stars, and distant snow-capped peaks glitter under the sunlight. This land, known as the "New Zealand of China," hides the gentlest face of the Tianshan Mountains. Setting off from downtown Urumqi early in the morning, heading south, the city's hustle and bustle gradually fades away. After just about an hour's drive, the Nanshan Pasture on the northern foothills of the Karau Mountain comes into view. This is the natural barrier on the northern slope of the Tianshan Mountains. At an altitude of 2,252 meters, this high mountain pasture was a famous hunting ground during the Tang Dynasty and had developed into a renowned pasture by the Qing Dynasty. Today, it is a provincial-level scenic area in Xinjiang, a secluded paradise covering about 120 square kilometers. --- 01 Tracing the Green Wilderness: First Encounter with Nanshan Pasture The car winds upward, and the view outside the window changes from urban scenes to vast grasslands and forests. As the altitude rises, the temperature gradually cools, leaving the summer heat behind in the valley. Arriving at the core scenic area of Nanshan Pasture—Xibaiyang Valley—a lush forest and grassland greet you. Snow peaks pierce the clouds, glaciers sparkle, mountains meander, cliffs tower, and the canyon is deep. Several parallel valleys run north to south within the scenic area, including Xiaoquzi, Gan Valley, Juhuatai, Xibaiyang Valley, and Dongbaiyang Valley from west to east. Each valley features similar natural landscapes of the northern Tianshan slope but with its own unique charm. The climate of Nanshan Pasture is cool and pleasant, making it an ideal summer retreat. In the hot summer, temperatures rarely exceed 25°C here, and the fresh air carries the scent of grass and wildflowers, refreshing the soul. 02 Strolling Through Baiyang Valley: Mountains, Forests, Grasslands, and Waterfalls Xibaiyang Valley is the core scenic spot of Nanshan Pasture. Walking along the valley, tall spruces and pines stand on both sides, and the stream at the valley bottom flows clearly and visibly. A waterfall about 40 meters high and 2 meters wide hangs on a cliff wall. The waterfall looks like a white ribbon suspended in the air, cascading down like a silver dragon dancing, roaring like a drum. At the waterfall’s base, splashing waves and fine water droplets scatter, falling on moss-covered rocks and dark green forests on both sides like a gentle drizzle, cool and pleasant. There are two ways to reach the waterfall—by horseback or on foot. I chose horseback, led by a local Kazakh horseman, slowly ascending along the horse trail. The round trip by horse to the waterfall takes about an hour and a half. For visitors with less stamina, electric carts are also available. 03 The Aerial Grassland: Ulastai’s Alpine Secret The Ulastai aerial grassland is another gem of Nanshan Pasture. Known by tourists as the "Little Switzerland of Xinjiang," it was also a filming location for the show "Where Are We Going, Dad?" Standing on the grassland, surrounded by overlapping peaks and the sound of pine waves in the breeze. Looking far into the distance, the cityscape of Urumqi can be faintly seen. From spring to autumn, more than a dozen kinds of wildflowers bloom in waves on the grassland—yellow, purple, light blue, red, white—colorful and breathtaking. The nomadic life here is like a vivid painting: herds of cattle and sheep, scattered yurts, wild animals such as horses, deer, wild boars, and marmots peeking through the forest and grass, presenting an alluring primitive scene everywhere. 04 Kazakh Customs: Yurts, Milk Tea, Songs, and Dances Nanshan Pasture not only offers natural scenery but also rich Kazakh ethnic customs. On the way back, I was fortunate to be invited to a Kazakh herder’s yurt. Inside the white yurt, the host warmly served milk tea and various Kazakh-flavored foods. The milk tea is savory and delicious, quite different from the sweet milk teas commonly found. Traditional snacks like Baursak (fried dough balls) and milk curds dazzled the eyes. These foods are not only tasty but also the wisdom crystallized from the Kazakh nomadic lifestyle. During festivals and celebrations, Kazakhs hold traditional performances such as horse racing, sheep grabbing, and girl chasing, showcasing the bravery and grandeur of this horseback nation. 05 Travel Tips: How to Enjoy Nanshan Pasture For visitors planning to go to Nanshan Pasture, here are some practical tips: Transportation: Nanshan Pasture is about 75 kilometers from downtown Urumqi, approximately a 1.5-hour drive. Visitors can choose to charter a car, drive themselves, or join local tours. Tickets: Entrance fee to Nanshan Pasture is about 45 RMB per person, but it may vary. Horseback round trip to the waterfall costs about 200 RMB per person, and electric cart round trip costs about 38-60 RMB per person. Opening Hours: 09:30–22:00. Best Season: Summer is the most beautiful season at Nanshan Pasture, with lush green grass, blooming wildflowers, and cool weather. Notes: The temperature difference in the scenic area is large, so bring a light jacket even in summer; take sun protection measures; respect local ethnic customs. --- As the sun sets in the west, we set off on our return journey. Looking back at Nanshan Pasture, the sunset’s afterglow gilds the grassland, smoke curls from Kazakh herders’ yurts, and horses and sheep are being driven back into the pens. This land, known as the "New Zealand of China," not only boasts stunning natural scenery but also carries a rich history and diverse culture. Nanshan Pasture is like a green gem embedded on the northern slope of the Tianshan Mountains, telling the story of harmonious coexistence between humans and nature in its unique way. Nanshan Pasture